California has long been a pioneer in the culinary world, celebrated for its innovative, vegetable-focused cuisine and the blending of diverse cultural flavors often referred to as “California cuisine.” With its dynamic food scene, the state is a paradise for food enthusiasts. Renowned for its Michelin-starred restaurants, California boasts an impressive 85 establishments with stars, including six with the coveted three-star distinction—the highest number in the United States.
Beyond its culinary artistry, California’s agricultural output is equally remarkable. The state produces over 400 different commodities and is responsible for more than a third of the country’s vegetables and over three-quarters of its fruits and nuts. Additionally, 85% of U.S. wine originates in California. Major export products include almonds, dairy, pistachios, wine, and walnuts, some of which make their way to India. Notably, India ranks as California’s 7th largest agricultural export market, with products like tree nuts, dairy, processed tomatoes, and oranges contributing to over $1.1 billion in trade.
Recently, Visit California showcased the state’s vibrant sports, entertainment, and culinary heritage at the Game On! event in Mumbai. This unique celebration highlighted California’s world-class attractions, delicious cuisine, and immersive experiences. A specially curated menu, created using premium ingredients from California, brought the essence of the state to life. The dishes were crafted by acclaimed Chef Will Aghajanian, the Chef in Residence at The Table in Mumbai, who wove California’s golden legacy into each plate.
In an exclusive interview with Travel and Food Network, Chef Will Aghajanian shared insights into his culinary journey, the inspiration behind his menu, and the unique qualities of California produce. He also discussed emerging trends in the culinary world, particularly the growing emphasis on vegan and vegetarian cuisines.
1. How has California’s vibrant food culture and abundance of fresh, locally sourced ingredients influenced your cooking style and menu at The Horses?
Horses has been greatly influenced by timeless Californian restaurants like Zuni and Chez Panisse. We tried not to over-complicate things and make food as if we were in the guests’ shoes – food that we would be excited to eat ourselves.
2. California is known for its farm-to-table movement. How do you incorporate this philosophy into your dishes, both at The Horses and now at The Table in Mumbai?
We tried to use as many local products as possible at Horses. In California, we tried to treat the local produce almost like if someone in Sicily was given avocados and what they’d do with those.
For India, we try to incorporate local produce, as well as subtle Indian flavours. A lot of our produce is grown at The Table Farm in Alibaug – organically and inhouse.
3. Los Angeles is a melting pot of cultures and cuisines. How has the city’s diversity shaped your culinary approach and the creation of unique flavour profiles?
We try not to get too creative. I would rather let the flavour of the produce do the talking, instead of trying to impress guests with creativity.
4. California is world-renowned for its wines. How do you approach wine pairings with your dishes, and are there any California wines you find particularly inspiring?
Honestly, I’m not a huge wine nerd; I’ve tried a lot of ones that I like, but I’m not someone who remembers labels. At The Table we have wines that pair with individual dishes (by the glass), and wines that pair well with the entire dinner (bottle).
5. If you had to create a dish that captures the essence of California, what ingredients would you use, and what story would it tell?
Southern California is known for showcasing various tropical fruits, like guava, different varieties of avocados, etc. Poaching a guava almost like a pear for a salad would be nice.
6. What challenges and opportunities have you encountered while bringing the essence of California’s culinary ethos to a city like Mumbai?
I think the culinary scene in Mumbai is really fun – there’s so much to see and learn here. It’s still very much in its infant stage, so there is a lot of scope to grow. Every day is an opportunity to learn something new and it’s exciting to see what the team comes up with. Even staff lunches are exciting when the team tries to experiment with native ingredients from their hometown – like a Bengali mustard curry and wild mushrooms from Shillong. What’s more challenging than LA are the dietary restrictions (Veg, Eggless, Jain, etc) that are more complex than your standard vegan, gluten and dairy restrictions. But you learn from it, and it makes you more conscious of your ingredients and methods – makes you better in the long term; so, I’m just taking them as growing pains.
7. From avocado toasts to the rise of plant-based dining, California has started global food trends. Are there any specific trends you’ve embraced or evolved in your menus?
I think what Chez Panisse and Zuni Cafe did, was a big inspiration: Don’t try too hard, don’t overcomplicate things, and use the best quality ingredients you can find.
8. How do you see the culinary scene in California evolving in the next decade, and what role do you hope to play in that transformation?
I think it will get simpler. There will be lesser focus on chefs trying to show you how much they can, do and more focus on making guests happy, leaving the restaurant with a good memory and wanting to frequent the joint more. Good service, good food, fun, unpretentious and casual will be the way forward.
9. California is renowned for its produce. Can you tell us a bit about the quality of produce and the dishes you curated at Game On! in Mumbai using this produce?
Using the California prunes, we made a classic Far Breton, a flan-style eggs-and-milk custard with flour added. We also made a wine-poached, local guava and radicchio salad using the California pistachios, with a Belper Knolle from Eleftheria shaved on top. We also made a classic Israeli cake called Tishpishti with the California walnuts and California almonds.
About Chef Will Aghajanian
Will Aghajanian’s culinary journey began in Washington D.C., where, at just 11, he secured a weekend internship at a local restaurant, sparking his passion for cooking. By 13, he apprenticed at CityZen under Eric Ziebold, honing his skills over five years. Will’s career took him to renowned kitchens worldwide, including Mugaritz in Spain, Per Se in New York, and esteemed establishments in France, Copenhagen, Tokyo, and Australia. He co-founded acclaimed restaurants like Horses in Los Angeles and The Frog Club in New York City. Now, as Chef in Residence at The Table, Mumbai, Will continues to push culinary boundaries with his innovative approach.
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